Why Is My Septic Tank Overflowing?

Does your septic tank have water coming out of the top of it, then it is most definitely in need of attention pronto. Water should never be coming out of the tank. Sewer can be a health hazard for you, your children, your pets, and, oh yeah, the aroma!!. It should be dealt with accordingly.

So why is your septic tank overflowing?

The answer is your septic tank is overflowing because the tank itself is clogged or the discharge line is clogged or compromised, which will not allow the tank to drain fast enough. Other reasons your tank may not be properly draining is a compromised leach field or a faulty lift station pump.

Before we dive into the different issues you may be experiencing with your septic tank, I want to talk to you about Bacteria quickly.

Yes, Bacteria in all its goodness.

They are the good guys in this story. The role bacteria play in a healthy septic system is completely underrated, misunderstood, or just unknown to the most general public. I believe that it is the contractor and installers’ job and responsibility to educate its customers on the role bacteria play in the sewer system. And how the fluctuation can directly affect the longevity of the entire system.

So, here we go…

The bacteria in the tank need to be in a constant state of growth and multiplying. Anything you put in the sewer system affects the growth of bacteria for the good or the bad. Continuous use of harsh chemicals can be detrimental to your system and take the whole bacteria population out if you’re not mindful of your contributions.

A good way to think about the nasty tank buried right outside your house is to look at the septic tank as a large culture farm of microscopic animals. So, in other words, don’t flush a gallon of bleach down the toilet. Ok, enough of that. First, we need to determine if you have an old or new style sewer system to diagnose the system.

Septic Tank Age

• The old systems are called Septic Tanks because they were actually and technically septic. They do not treat the waste so, when it comes out on the other end, it is still considered black water (raw sewer). The newer systems ‘while commonly called septic tank, also’ they are not. The old system is an An-aerobic Septic Tanks; while bacteria growth is still of the utmost importance with new and old systems, the old septic systems are not stable in bacteria production. They also have less tolerance for harsh chemicals like bleach, antibacterial soap, and detergents. Too much greywater can definitely affect the system also. Things like the dishwasher and washing machine. All of which can do major damage in a short amount of time. Pumping is also needed more frequently (more on pumping below). This old system needs to be phased out, and more and more areas are trying to enforce them to be upgraded.

• The newer improved system for handling private sewer is called an ‘On-Site Wastewater Treatment System; or commonly known as a Treatment System. The main way these two systems are different is instead of like the old system that uses Anaerobic bacteria growth, which does not require oxygen. The new system utilizes Aerobic bacteria, which requires an aerator to pump oxygen in the tank to help them multiply. So if you have the new system, just like fish in an aquarium, they need a constant supply of good oxygen to thrive.

So the aerobic bacteria will die without a good source of oxygen and turn the entire top layer into a thick 6′ to 12″ layer. This is why it is so important that your aerator pump is in proper working order. Keep in mind just because it sounds like it is working does not mean that it’s actually getting enough air into the tank. We will discuss the aerator pump in more detail in the ‘Clogged Tank’ section.

The bacteria utilized in these two systems are actually different strands of bacteria. —Anaerobic (no OXY) or Aerobic (need OXY).

These boosters are useful for getting your bacteria levels caught back up after having the pumped out. Yall need to refill the tank with water after the pumping. After filling it back up, though, it could use some help from some septic booster treatment. Follow directions for your size tank. Must residential tanks are 500-gallon tanks, so that you could use the number for a rough idea. Septic Booster Treatment: These are convenient little pouches similar to dishwasher pods, so they are easy to use by just flushing them down the toilet.

Another good time to flush a pod is after having a larger gather like Thanksgiving and Christmas to help with the over-usage. Helping your tank with a little boost after a gathering could be especially important if you have a leach field.

But this is not a solution for an underlying issue that will need to be addressed directly and not solved by just adding septic boosters.

Some of these added bacterias are super predators. They could lead to field line failure by overwhelming the downstream field lines with larger particles that can accumulate and plug everything up.

Here Are 5 Reason Your Septic Tanks Is Overflowing.

Clogged Discharge Line

The first reason your septic tank may be overflowing is a clogged discharge line/outlet line. All septic tanks have a pipe that connects the house to the tank, called the inlet line. On the other side of the tank, another line exits the tank, and this line is called the outlet line.

We are only worried about the outlet line here, not the inlet. The inlet pipe coming from the house would have nothing to do with the septic overflowing because it’s on the tank’s upstream side. Yes, the inlet pipe would affect the house backing up but not the septic tank.

So now that we have that out of the way let’s talk about the outlet line. The outlet line exits the tank on the tank’s downstream side so, if clogged, this would cause the septic tank to overflow and come up out of the top of the tank.

This section will not discuss leach drain/field drains because your discharge line might not drain into a drain/leach field. Usually, you have a drain/leach field; your outlet line will run to one of the following locations: a.) Your outlet runs to a ditch where the outlet pipe’s end is usually visible in the ditch. Run the discharge to a ditch is the least problematic disposal method if approved, providing the ditches deep enough, so you have enough grade.

You also be cautious about the ditch water coming back up in the tank when it rains. In this case, you would need a Backwater Valve. This will keep freshwater from the ditch from flooding your tank and killing off the good bacteria.

If your outlet pipe runs to a ditch, this would be the first place to look before calling a plumber or septic company. Go to the end of the outlet where it enters the ditch to ensure that it is not just vegetation, leaves, or dirt stopping up the whole system.

The solution to why your septic tank is overflowing might be as easy as cleaning out the end of this pipe. You may be able to use a shovel, and maybe something to stick up into the end of the pipe 4 or 5 feet and pull the debris out of the end of the pipe might do it and potentially save you some money.

If you do not have a sufficient ditch on your proper, you may have an Ove

Overland Flow is allowed in some areas with larger yards, usually at least 1 acre or more. With over the Overland, Flow is used; the outlet’s end should emerge from the ground at a lower elevation further down the grade.

The Overland Flow method needs to have enough land to flow over between the opening at the end of the pipe and your neighbors closest property line so that it is absorbed into the ground before flowing over onto their property. If you have an overland flow, it should be relatively easy to find the end of the discharge pipe.

If you do not know where the end of the outlet pipe is located, maybe look for an area with patches of greener looking grass or look in the soggy wet areas and find the outlet pipe’s end. Sometimes the end is cover with grass and may need the grass, vegetation, or dirt pulled out of the end, and then the septic will start draining. Sometimes it is just that easy and will not require you to call a professional and maybe save you a little $, Do-Re-Mi Faso.

Clogged Tank

The second reason our septic tank may be overflowing is that you may have a clogged tank; the health of the tank itself may be compromised, and nothing is coming out of the discharge lines downstream.

Several things could be working against your tank and ever so gradually taking it over. Let’s talk about some common reasons this might happen.

One of these is the accumulation of solid matter (solidification). Older tanks are less stable and more likely to have this problem, especially if pumping is overdue.

The bacteria that the older system uses will not multiply as fast as the new aerated systems. This solidification can also happen, rather quickly, with new newer systems even though the newer system does a much better job. The bacterial relies on oxygen to multiply, and without it, a very thick layer of scum on the top and bottom of the tank could form.

Another reason could be that many food & greases were put down the drain over several months or years. A grease clogged is caused by treating the garbage disposal or sink like a food waste bin. In general, food is not good for your tank and takes a lot longer to break down, especially greasy foods. Another reason your tank may be clogged is roots infiltration. More on roots farther down the road…

Lift Pump Failure

The third reason your septic tank might be overflowing is if you’re experiencing lift pump failure. Lift pumps are sometimes placed at the tank’s exiting side and are usually located in its own smaller tank.

Pumps are used to overcome gravity in particular situations. For instance, if you do not have enough grade for discharge to drain to the ditch by gravity, community sewer, or disposal area, you likely have a life pump.

Lift pumps are also used in situations where there is no ditch or disposal area, and so the effluent is pumped to yard sprinklers to distribute the discharge evenly across an approved area so it can percolate through the soil.

The first thing to check if you have a lift pump is to see if the pump has power to it; it might be that your problem is just a tripped GFI plug-in outlet that needs to be reset or replaced with a weatherproof GFI plug and cover. If the pump has power and still not coming on, it probably is either clogged, jammed, or just buried out.

It may need to be replaced. If you do replace the pump, try to go back with a true grinder pump. The grinder pumps are more expensive; they will make up for it up to you in the long run.

Don’t go cheap on this!

Some situations would call for a grinder pump more than others, like a sprinkler system. But generally, it’s best to use a grinder-type pump across the board. We use the Liberty Grinder Pumps 1HP 115V because of the reliability we have experienced with them.

Drainfield/Leachfield Failure

The fourth reason might be you don’t have a discharge line that runs to a ditch. Instead, you may have a Drainfield/Leachfield. If your septic is overflowing because of the leaching system in place, it has most likely reached the end of its life. This is usually inevitable with this type of system; the life span of a drain field is usually around 15 years, give or take 5 years depending on the installation’s quality.

However, we have replaced drain fields that were as old as 30 years old. Leaching systems have improved a lot over the years, and several approved methods depend on where on life. But no matter what, if longevity is expected in a leaching system, proper forethought and planning are needed.

The drain field’s installation must also be executed according to the system’s design, considering the soil permeability. Unfortunately, more corners are cut in this type of work than just about anything I’ve come across in my 20 years of plumbing.

Here a couple of symptoms your drain field may be having due to improper installation or poor maintenance, as well as reaching its life expectancy. The drain field may be inundated with larger debris that is not broken down enough before exiting the tank. This will cause accumulation, leading to premature failure of the downstream leach system and its branch lines. It may have an excessive amount of biofilm that has formed a thick mat on the bottom.

Becoming prone to over saturation is a concern also.

Several things can cause oversaturation. Here are a few: under-sizing the system initially, the grade of land not shedding water away from the leaching area allows rain any type of runoff to infiltrate the leaching area, changes in the water-table from added a ditch or pond nearby.

Freshwater, such as rainwater, gutter run-off, water filter backwash, pool backwash, leaky running fixtures, should be kept from entering the sewer system. At any point, the plumbing or sewer system can overwhelm the leaching area/drain field. Too much freshwater will kill your buddy, Mr. Bacteria, otherwise now as “the life force of a healthy sewer system.’

All of this being said, if the drain field is the cause of the septic overflowing; in most cases, it will need to be replaced with a new and improved sewer system. If you think a new system is needed, make sure to do your homework and hire a reputable contractor.

Root Infiltration

There is a good reason that ‘roots’ get their very own section on this page. It’s because they can work themselves into practically anything!!! But they are a plumber’s best friend.

So much so that I have a side business planting trees. 😉

Roots can and do get into any part of the sewer system if given the slightest chance and can wreak havoc. They do not have mercy and could care less about us mortals. When found, they must be taken out.

The best way to fight this enemy is before the battle even begins. The initial design and installation must be thought of with them in mind. Because, once they’re in, they’re in, and more are coming.

Ok, that was fun. But true!

Seriously though, nothing short of repairing the pipe or systems themselves will stop or keep them out once in. I have taken lids off of septics tank and found roots that look just like a twin size mattress. Probably could have walked across some of them.

We see homeowners planting shrubs and trees right on top of the septic tank or leach field. Right on Top! I’ve seen trees 40 feet away, sneak over, drop down and take over their new concrete home. They find all the nutrition they’ll need to thrive.

Homeowners often try to put different root killing powders and liquids down the pipe. These gimmicks do not work in any degree of certainty. Actually, no, they’re useless. The only way to keep them out is to figure out where their getting in a seal, fix or replace.

Over the years, we have removed a lot of roots out of septic tanks and have found creative ways to keep roots out. One of these is the use of hydraulic concrete. The use of concrete needs to be used carefully when using it to seal covers and access ports so you can remove them in the event they need to be removed.

How Often Should I Pump My Septic

How Often Should I Pump My Septic Tank? You Should Pump out our septic tank (An-aerobic Septic Tanks) every 3-4 years. And should pump an (On-Site Wastewater Treatment System) every 5-8 years max.

An in-depth Inspection of the system upon pumping is recommended, and you should try to hire an Installer who also has a pump truck. Their experience will typically be greater than someone who just pumps.

From my experience as a Licensed Master Plumber and Septic Repair & Installer, it’s kind of like having a nice vehicle and changing the oil a little before ‘s necessary for the vehicle’s longevity.

Mechanics are expensive!

There are ways of checking the depth of the accumulated solids piled up on the tank’s bottom to use as a gauge for pumping the tank. I don’t think most readers will want to do this, and I don’t recommend this method. Have it pump, inspected, get on a maintenance plan, and keep a log. Especially if your not sure how long it’s been since the tank had been inspected. Neglecting this issue will cost you more in the long run.

One more time: Find a reputable company, have it pumped, inspected, and, if they offer, get on a maintenance plan with them. Also, keep your own maintenance records for yourself and for passing it on should you sell.

Septic repairs and installs are not cheap!

Take my word for it, for what it’s worth if you can find a reputable State Licensed Plumber who also has an On-Site Wastewater License with the State. These two trades sharpen one another’s performances.

If we are mindful of our sewer systems, they will serve our households a lot longer. Also, the health of our communities and the environment will be affected for the better. Regularly pumping is a small price to pay versus some of the alternatives.

Key Concept Take-Aways